- Guide
- Flavors
By Professor Wang Qiang, School of Foreign Languages and Tourism, Liming Vocational University
In Quanzhou, where ancient traditions seamlessly blend with modern life, one dish stands out for its ability to captivate both the senses and the soul: Ginger Duck. Beloved by locals and visitors alike, this iconic dish not only delights the taste buds but also carries the weight of the city's rich culinary history. The moment you think of Ginger Duck, its distinctive aroma seems to fill the air, drawing in all who pass by.
1. Ginger Duck: A Sensory Delight
Imagine wandering through the historic lanes of Quanzhou, where the scent of Ginger Duck, simmering in a steaming clay pot, wafts through the air. Local guides often ask visitors, "Do you know whether Ginger Duck is made with a male or female duck?" In reality, the term "Ginger Mother" ("姜母") does not refer to the duck's gender, but rather to the aged ginger used in the dish. In Southern Fujianese, this type of ginger is affectionately known as "Ginger Mother," and it is the star ingredient of this dish. Whether the duck is male or female, it is the bold, aromatic ginger that infuses the dish with its unforgettable flavor.
2. From Imperial Court to Local Tradition
The origins of Ginger Duck date back centuries. Historical records suggest it was once an imperial dish created by Wu Zhong, a renowned physician of the Shang Dynasty. Wu braised duck with sesame oil, wine, and ginger to create a fragrant, flavorful broth said to invigorate the spirit and improve circulation. Over time, this dish moved from the imperial court to the people of Quanzhou, evolving into a cherished local specialty.
3. The Harmonious Fusion of Ginger and Duck
Preparing Ginger Duck in Quanzhou involves selecting only the finest ingredients. Aged ginger, with its golden hue, is dried in the open air to intensify its flavor. The key to this dish lies not in complex cooking techniques, but in the quality of the ingredients. Thin slices of dried ginger are placed at the bottom of a clay pot, and a whole marinated duck is carefully arranged on top. A dash of salt, sesame oil, and strong white liquor are added to elevate the flavors. The dish is then simmered slowly, allowing the duck to absorb the rich, aromatic essence of the ginger, resulting in a tender and flavorful masterpiece.
The ducks used for Ginger Duck are always farm ducks, known for their firm, lean meat and distinct body shape. These ducks, with well-defined breastlines and non-greasy skin, were originally domesticated by the Maya people of Central and South America, long before Columbus' arrival. The farm duck was introduced to China during the Age of Exploration, with records of their arrival in the Qing Dynasty during the reign of Emperor Kangxi.
4. The Legendary Journey of the Farm Duck
The introduction of farm ducks significantly enriched China's poultry varieties and had a lasting impact on Chinese culinary traditions. The first mention of farm ducks in Chinese literature appears in Huang Shujing's Taihai Shicha Lu from the Qing Dynasty, which describes their characteristics and behaviors. Farm ducks were brought to Southern China, including Fujian, Taiwan, and Zhejiang, through trade and by Chinese emigrants returning from Southeast Asia. Over time, they became an integral part of local cuisine, featured in a variety of traditional dishes.
In Southern Fujian, farm ducks appear in many regional specialties. From Quanzhou's Shigu Bai Ya Tang (Stone Drum White Duck Soup) and Nian Ya Mi Fen (Duck Rice Noodles) to Xiamen's Ya Rou Mian Xian (Duck Noodle Soup) and Ya Rou Zhou (Duck Porridge), farm ducks are featured prominently, representing the unique flavors of the region.
5. Quanzhou and Taiwan: A Shared Legacy of Ginger Duck
Ginger Duck is not only loved in Quanzhou but also in Taiwan, where it was brought by migrants from Southern Fujian. Over time, the dish evolved in Taiwan, incorporating rice wine, sesame oil, and medicinal herbs, creating a distinctive local twist. In Xiamen, the dish retains its traditional Quanzhou roots while absorbing Taiwanese influences, resulting in a unique flavor profile.
In Quanzhou, salted duck is made with aged ginger, water, and generous amounts of salt, then slow-cooked over charcoal for several hours. The process dries out the sauce without deeply coloring the duck. In contrast, the Taiwanese version of Ginger Duck uses red-faced farm ducks, sesame oil, rice wine, and Chinese herbs, resulting in a deep, dark sauce. Xiamen's version combines aged ginger, sesame oil, cooking wine, and spices, simmered until the sauce thickens and becomes glossy.
6. A Culinary Heritage Preserved Through Time
As one of Quanzhou's most iconic dishes, Ginger Duck is celebrated not only for its unique flavor but also for the meticulous craftsmanship involved in its preparation. It has become much more than just a dish—it is a cultural treasure, embodying the essence of Quanzhou's history and traditions.
With Quanzhou's recent recognition as a UNESCO World Heritage site, the city has earned international acclaim as a vibrant hub of global maritime trade during the Song and Yuan dynasties. Ginger Duck, like a culinary ambassador, continues to showcase the charm of Quanzhou to visitors from around the world. In this ancient yet ever-evolving city, Ginger Duck will continue to tell the story of Quanzhou, leaving a lasting impression with its captivating fragrance and rich, complex flavor. It evokes a sense of warmth and nostalgia, inviting all who taste it to share in the city's rich culinary legacy.