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The Deep Nostalgia of the Minnan Chinese Diaspora and the Legendary Bak Kut Teh
Time: 2024-08-02 15:42

  By Prof./Dr.WANG Qiang

  Quanzhou, a city steeped in history, stands as a living testament to cultural richness and heritage. It is not only a historical treasure but also a cherished homeland in the hearts of the Minnan Chinese diaspora. Every year, Quanzhou hosts traditional customs and rituals, including the exhilarating dragon boat races, the mystical Sending-off of the King Boat ceremony, and solemn clan ancestor worship rites. These events strengthen cultural ties between overseas Chinese and their homeland, deepening their emotional bonds over time.

  Minnan Chinese communities abroad regularly organize association events, sponsor youth heritage trips, and participate in ancestral ceremonies. Through storytelling, music, and drama, they pass down cultural traditions. Such initiatives enable younger generations to experience the richness of their heritage, fostering identity, pride, and cultural continuity while building friendships, broadening perspectives, and even discovering business opportunities.

  The connection between Quanzhou and the Minnan diaspora transcends nostalgia. Cultural practices sustain traditions across borders. From Nanyin music to traditional opera and puppet shows, these cultural treasures thrive in diaspora communities. Notably, Minnan songs shared via social media strengthen the ties between Quanzhou and its global descendants.

  Quanzhou's culinary heritage is equally captivating, featuring dishes like Fujian fried rice, stir-fried noodles, sea worm jelly, oyster omelets, and ginger duck. Among these, bak kut teh, a dish associated with Hokkien immigrants in Malaysia and Singapore, evokes a deep sense of nostalgia. It originated from the struggles of early Chinese laborers who simmered pork bones into a nourishing broth. Over time, herbal ingredients were added, transforming the dish into a beloved delicacy. Despite containing no tea leaves, its herbal essence inspired its "tea" namesake, symbolizing warmth and comfort.

  Klang, Malaysia, is particularly famous for bak kut teh, thanks to Lee Wen Ti, a Hokkien immigrant from Yongchun, known as the "Father of Bak Kut Teh." Drawing from traditional herbal duck soup recipes from his hometown, he popularized the dish, making it Klang's signature specialty. Today, bak kut teh has evolved from a humble laborer's meal into a global culinary icon, available from street vendors to upscale restaurants. It has diversified into various styles, including Teochew, Hokkien, and Cantonese versions, leaving a lasting impression on palates worldwide.

  The story of bak kut teh reflects the resilience and creativity of the Minnan Chinese diaspora, showcasing their culinary ingenuity. Like a bridge connecting the diaspora with their homeland of Quanzhou, this dish links past, present, and future, deepening appreciation for cultural heritage. As we savor a bowl of bak kut teh, rich with ancestral flavors, we are reminded of profound cultural nostalgia and an enduring longing for home.

  (Dr. Wang Qiang, Professor of Foreign Languages and Tourism at Liming University, Columnist for the Philippine Chinese Commercial News on Maritime Heritage & Culture Roots, Author of The Legendary Port of Maritime Silk Routes:Zayton[Quanzhou], and other works.)