By Xie Weiduan, Zhuang Jianping, Chen Senshen, with contributions from Xie Jingxin and Wei Jiahong

　　The origins of Oolong tea have long been associated with Fujian, China, yet its precise birthplace has remained a subject of debate.

　　On June 20, 2024, the Anxi County Tea Heritage Research Office announced a breakthrough. Newly examined ancestral records provide compelling evidence that Anxi County, Fujian, is the true birthplace of Oolong tea-making techniques. Through historical research and local interviews, we uncover the story behind this enduring legacy.

　　The Legend of Su Liang: A 500-Year-Old Tea Tradition

　　For centuries, a local legend in Xiping, Anxi, has credited the origins of Oolong tea to Su Liang, a Ming Dynasty figure.

　　During the Chenghua reign (1465–1487), the Chongxin region of Anxi (modern-day Xiping) was home to tea farmers and hunters. Among them was Su Liang, a retired military officer with a dark complexion. Locals nicknamed him “Oolong” (乌龙), a Hokkien term where “black” (乌) and “dragon” (龙) phonetically resemble “Liang” (良) and “Long” (龙).

　　One afternoon, while picking tea leaves in the hills, Su Liang spotted a muntjac deer and gave chase. The hunt took longer than expected, and by the time he returned home with his catch, night had fallen. Exhausted, he left his freshly picked tea leaves in a basket overnight.

　　The next morning, he noticed something unusual—partial oxidation had given the leaves a rich, floral aroma. After roasting and brewing them, he discovered the tea was smoother and more fragrant than before.

　　Through further experimentation, Su Liang refined his method, realizing that gentle agitation during handling triggered oxidation along the leaf edges, creating a distinctive reddish hue. His discovery laid the foundation for semi-fermented tea-making techniques. Su Liang shared his method with fellow villagers, and after his passing, they honored his legacy by naming the tea “Oolong.” A shrine was later built at his residence in recognition of his contributions.

　　Ancestral Records Confirm the Su Family’s Role in Anxi’s Tea Culture

　　Newly uncovered historical evidence strengthens the connection between Su Liang and Anxi’s tea traditions.

　　The Su Clan Genealogy: A Link to Ancient Tea Scholarship

　　The Lushan Su Clan Genealogy, compiled by the Tongan Lushan Hall Su Song Research Association, traces Su Liang’s ancestry to Tongan and highlights the contributions of Su Song (1020–1101), a renowned scientist and tea scholar of the Northern Song Dynasty.

　　Su Song’s Illustrated Pharmacopoeia (Ben Cao Tu Jing) is one of the earliest systematic studies of tea, documenting cultivation practices in Fujian, Zhejiang, and beyond. His descriptions of tea processing bear striking similarities to modern techniques.

　　By the Yuan Dynasty, Su clan descendants—Maode, Moan, and Mo Huai—had migrated from Tongan to Anxi, settling in what is now Liutianzai and Lingtou. Historical records confirm that these families, along with other prominent tea-growing lineages such as the Wei and Wang clans, played an active role in tea cultivation.

　　The Wei Clan: Preserving and Refining Oolong Tea Techniques

　　While Su clan records confirm their historical presence in Anxi, few direct descendants remain today. However, the Lu Chuan Wei Clan Genealogy verifies both the Su family’s historical footprint and the transmission of their tea-making expertise.

　　Wei Yuede, a nationally recognized master of Oolong tea craftsmanship (including Tieguanyin processing), affirms that the Su family once lived in Songyan, Xiping. They shared their tea-making knowledge with the Wei clan, who refined and passed down these techniques for generations. Stone inscriptions at Qishe Rock, an important site along Anxi’s old tea trade routes, further validate this legacy.

　　Through both oral traditions and documented records, the connection between Su Liang’s discovery and Anxi’s role in the evolution of Oolong tea is clearer than ever. These findings solidify Anxi’s claim as the birthplace of Oolong tea, highlighting its enduring influence on tea culture and craftsmanship.

　　With this compelling new evidence, the debate over Oolong tea’s origins takes a decisive turn—toward the tea fields of Anxi, where a centuries-old tradition continues to thrive.